Here it is
My version of Marian Martin 9765
Ok, my pocket and belt are mirrored from the pattern photo and the model and I have opposite body types…. but I am happy with my dress.
the back of the dress
Pocket detail: I noted that the pattern photo has the same pocket droop.
Belt
This is was a challenging project. The original pattern was unprinted so I traced it and the markings (easy to trace as they are just holes in the pattern). I made photocopies of the directions so I would not accidentally damage the original pattern. The original was for a 36 bust and I am a 38, so I graded up the pattern using directions I found in an old issue of Threads on my Threads collection on cd. There were actually two articles on grading on the disk, but I liked this method because it didn’t uniformly increase everything by 2″: some areas were increased by less than 2″, such as the upper chest. I chose not to add the increased length when grading the skirt of the dress, as my legs are short. My graded up pattern looked like this:
It was a little tricky to grade up as the sleeves were attached to the bodice yokes and the whole process was very time consuming. I had to add more to the waist and hips at the side seams and I added to the side seams to make them 1″. The rest of the pattern has the original 1/2″ seam allowances. I made a square shoulder alteration, but did not do a narrow shoulder alteration as tissue fitting the yoke did not indicate I needed one. I made a quick muslin out of an old sheet and the fit was fine. I did adjust the front sleeves slightly to make them a little easier to attach to the armscye. The armscye needs to be eased into the sleeve and it was very difficult to do as the sleeve was so much shorter. I still had to ease the armholes in my real dress, but not quite so much. I added 1/2″ more to the length of the sleeves too.
I used a lightweight purple cotton shirting with a slight sheen to it. I love the color and the feel of the fabric, but it does wrinkle easily. The sleeves are faced, the neckline has a bias fasting, and I used seam binding on the hem, then hand stitched all of them, using mostly a blind stitch or a slip stitch.
I am happy with the finished result and it will be my entry in Pattern Review’s Vintage Pattern contest.